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  • Charley Doyle - @thisgirldiys

Lollipop Stick Herringbone Sideboard

Updated: Jan 31, 2021

A step by step guide of how to make a herringbone sideboard or storage cabinet!

So many of you have asked how to make my storage cabinet well here you go, a step by step guide to show you how! I have included images, dimensions, products which I used the lot to make it as simple as possible for you to create your own!

I have learnt what I would and wouldn't do along to way of my project so I have included my changes I would make if I were to build again so you don't have to!

Tools required:

- Circular Saw - Or use a service to cut the wood for you, for example B&Q or Cut My Plastic.

- Clamps - If you're cutting your own wood

- Pocket Hole Jig - I used the Wolfcraft Pocket Hole jig, it comes in a set for £29.99 on Amazon, really worth the cost, I've used it for so many projects! Just fits with any electric drill/screwdriver.

- Scissors

- Electric or Manual Screwdriver

- Mitre Block and Saw (Or Mitre Saw)

- Square!

- Stanley Knife

Step 1 - Measure the space you have to work with!

My space was 1m wide! to fit between the wall and the door frame, my width is 1m

Height; there are a few options depending on what you would like to use the cabinet for. Do you want it at console table height (normally 80cm) or at display cabinet height (1m high)

I went for 1m in height.

Depth, I would advise a minimum of 30cm depth of the cabinet to be useful! Anything less it you won't be able to store much!

Step 2 - Work out your cut list! Measure twice cut once!

Base - as a design feature I added the base to raise off the floor, this is 20cm from the ground to the bottom of the cabinet.

The wood I used for the base was: Wickes - 44mm x 44mm whitewood. Comes in lengths of 2.4m -

1) 4 x uprights at 200mm each

2) 2 x width pieces = 1000mm-(2 x 44mm) = 912mm

3) 2 x depth Lengths = 300mm-(2 x 44mm) -212m

Cabinet Box - These below numbers are for a total cabinet size of 1m high, 1m wide, 30cm in depth. For this I used 18mm MDF

4) 2 x Side uprights (1000 - 200 - 18 - 18) = 764mm High x 300mm Wide

5) 2 x Top/bottom 1000mm x 300mm Wide

6) Back of the Box, 3mm MDF - 1000mm wide x 800mm high

Doors - Again I used 18mm MDF but this was only as I had some, if I was to do again I would use 12mm. These measurements are for INSET doors, but you may want


7) 2 x Doors at height = ( 800 - 18 - 18 - 30) = 734mm Width = (1000 - 18 - 18 - 20 - 20)/2 = 462mm

Step 3 - Go shopping!

If you are a complete beginner I would choose smaller pieces of wood which require fewer cuts or visit a shop which can help you with the cuts. It doesn't cost much but will save you hassle plus really helps if you don't yet have the tools!

Apart from the above wood you will need:

- Sanding Blocks in different Levels, P40, P80 P120

- Nails

- Handles, I used these from Etsy!

Step 4 - Cutting the pieces if you are cutting them yourself!

100% measure twice cut once! This is my number one rule and will really save you a lot of errors!

Use the Mitre block and saw to cut the pieces for 1,2 and 3, using the mitre block will help you to be sure that they're square, this is needed for stability of the base. MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE

Using the circular saw to cut pieces 4,5,7 (Worth waiting to cut until the box is made to double check your sizes). if your saw doesn't come with a guide or the guide isn't long enough I would advise creating a guide , Make sure the guide is 100% straight and square! MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE!

Leave the 3mm MDF as this is easier another way I will come to at the point you need it.

STEP 5 - Make the base

When creating the base you need to connect the pieces as per the below.

I used pocket holes, you don't want the screws to intersect.

The pocket holes are always on the bottom of the frame so you won't see these joins when the cabinet is finished!

STEP 6 - Connect the base to the bottom of the box, Screw down through the MDF into the 4 corner pieces from the base downwards, so they are flush against the MDF

STEP 7 - Drill the pocket holes into the side pieces you need 4 on each edge. (be sure to add these no closer than 3cm to the edges). You will have them on both ends of each piece of MDF.

STEP 8 - Connect the box together - Using the pocket holes attach the sides of the box together. Be sure to glue along the edges for a firmer hold. Now you have your main box shape, this was mine at this point.

STEP 9 - Connect the back board of the 3mm MDF

Place the sheet of MDF over the back of the cabinet and mark where you need to cut, using a Stanley knife score along these lines on both sides then you can bend the MDF to break it in the right place.

Once you've got it cut, nail into the box around the edges. Doing this really helps the rigidity of the cabinet.

STEP 10 - The Doors!

It is good at this point before you spend HOURS sticking on lollipop sticks to dry fit the doors, attach them with the hinges to the cabinet, the hinges attach small side to the door and larger side to the cabinet! I wedged a Lollipop stick underneath when fitting to ensure the door didn't rub against the base. If it is the wrong size you may have to sand some off, if you waited to cut the doors measure measure measure and measure again! Remove the width of the hinges and 1mm for the gap between the doors.

STEP 10 - The Fun bit!! - Adding the Lollipop Sticks!

Okay the bit you've all been waiting for! I found this part so therapeutic! I started by cutting the ends off the lollipop sticks in a huge batch - i just used sharp scissors but this tool is also so handy! Especially for the 45 degree cuts to come!

Once you have cut the round ends from the sticks, you're ready to go! I drew a line up the centre of each door and marked 45 degrees using my square from this centre line, I started the herringbone pattern here! Then using the gorilla glue I just got sticking over and over and over! You'll really start to see the pattern coming together! You don't need too much glue use a spare stick to smooth out. If you don't get the pieces exactly lined up its okay, wood filler can fix these! Later sanding can smooth out any discrepancies you have around the edges too.

When it comes to the edges I did these last I laid out one stick at a time marked out where to cut and went for it, the edge cutter did prevent the splitting of the wood.

Continue this pattern onto both doors, the top of the cabinet and the sides. For the edge of the cabinet (due to the inset doors the 18mm is the same width as the lollipop sticks so I added these round to cover the raw MDF edge!

STEP 11 - Wood Filler

The colour I found which worked best was a Ronseal Natural Wood Filler this was the perfect colour and has a really quick drying time of only 2 hours! The best technique I found was to apply and rub round in circles taking off any excess by doing this preventing as much sanding. Fill EVERYWHERE! The difference you'll see here is huge!


Now everything needs sanding down! my tips on sandpaper are here. Start with the low numbers and work up to the high. This can smooth out any edges you have extra bumps and lumps! The more sanding the better it will look.

To see how the sanding comes along wipe with a damp cloth. To clear away the dust.

STEP 13 - Add the doors!

Now you're so nearly finished! Add the doors back onto the cabinet

STEP 14 - Add the handles!

Whichever handles you've chosen add these on! I used these cute leather strap handles from Etsy

You're done! I would absolutely love to see you're creation so share with me you're version over on Instagram - @thisgirldiys

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